When I was writing the recipe for this traditional Scottish smoked haddock soup I was tempted to rename it Smoked Finnan haddock soup with potato, onions and parsley, on the grounds that Cullen Skink sounds like something you wouldn’t want to give to your pet Jack Russell. But it’s a fine Scottish soup of great taste and simplicity. We’re all a bit wet in Britain when it comes to naming dishes: if it sounds a bit off putting we call it something else. On the restaurant menu we can never use world such as ‘boiled’, as in boiled leg of lamb with caper sauce or boiled fish heads, but why not? If that’s how you cook the thing, that’s how it should be named. This soup is very easy to prepare. Do make sure that you get the best undyed haddock possible, preferably Finnan haddock, and don’t over cook it; the soup really is so much nicer if the flakes of haddock are moist and fresh. Overcooked smoked fish always has a slightly harsh aftertaste. Serve with a chilled Alsace or Gewürztraminer wine
Serves 4
2 medium onions
2 cloves
1.2 litres (2 pints) full-fat milk
1 fresh bay leaf
225g Finnan smoked haddock fillet, or other good-quality undyed smoked haddock
50 g butter
350 g potatoes, cut into 1 cm dice
85 ml double cream
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1) Peel one of the onions, cut it in half and stud each half with one of the cloves. Put in a pan with the milk and bay leaf, bring just to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the fish and simmer for 4 – 5 minutes or until just firm and opaque – a good guide is to allow 10 minutes per 2.5 cm (1 in) thickness of the fillet. Lift the fish out on to a plate and strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a jug. When the fish is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones and discard. Flake the fish into large pieces and set aside.
2) Peel and finely chop the remaining onion. Melt the butter in a large pan, add the onion and cook over a gentle heat for 5 minutes, until softened but not browned. Add the reserved milk and the diced potatoes. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently for 10 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked but still just firm.
3) Blend half the soup in a liquidiser until smooth. Return to the pan with the double cream and flaked haddock, season with a little salt and pepper and warm through for 1-2 minutes. Serve in a warmed soup tureen scattered with chopped parsley.
Happy cooking.
